UpNorthica

What chance does a birch bark canoe stand against the motorboats, float planes and big waves of Voyageurs National Park?

Well, solo canoeist extraordinaire Erik Simula has lived to blog about it. We’ve been following this canoe builder/ranger/musher/wilderness guide since April, when he set out to circumnavigate Minnesota’s Arrowhead Region. Sounds lovely, but don’t be fooled by the serene photo above; it looks like one of his few peaceful moments in the last few weeks. Read on for more.

Erik spent roughly a week winding northward along stretches of the Misssissippi and the Bigfork River. Some of his highlights were the abundant wildlife (like the low-flying eagle that dropped a feather into the canoe) and the profusion of runnable rapids. Covering as many as 23 miles/day on swift rivers has its downsides, though: Erik spent a good 12-hour day repairing and re-pitching the canoe. Fixits have become a near-daily ritual (and here I always thought that patching Kevlar with duct tape meant I was 98% Screwed.)

Simula also paid homage at the ancient burial site of Laurel Mounds, near the Rainy River.

His most recent stretch sounds like one of the more challenging ones. The border lakes of Voyageurs National Park are massive. Their wide expanses and churning waters have historically been the playground of float planes, speedboats and houseboats — but rarely canoeists. Erik counted over 100 motorized craft in one day and found himself “eating the wake from each boat.” Profanities, anyone? I know the park managers are aggressively working to accommodate paddlers, but apparently the other visitors… Not so much.

Thankfully, Erik met his share of friendly fisherpersons and paddling peers. And had occasion to visit several historical sites here, as well: Stops were made at the site of Barrasse’s Post ( a 1790’s trading post,) the restored Ash River Visitor Center, and the Mallard Island refuge of legendary conservationist Ernest Oberholzter (not actually in the park.)

The history, the lovely islands, even the naps on pine-needle beds in Voyageurs seem like they’ve revitalized Simula, who is now about to begin the last leg of his Arrowhead Journey. He signs off his latest post in good spirits:

I so look forward to this section of the trip through the canoe country wilderness. Home Stretch! I will continue to travel safely and respectfully. ”Thank You” to all of you who have supported or helped me thus far. Allez! Maajaa! (Let’s Go!)