Trip Report: The Numbered Chain Loop

Get off the beaten path and into more remote areas. It’s not difficult to do, and as a group of women, we try to make it happen every other year. This time, the four of us headed into a well traveled area with a loop in mind that would hopefully, past the crowds and deep into some solitude.
Lake One to North Wilder Lake.
Our entry point 30/Lake One, was located about 20 minutes east of Ely, Minnesota. We carried three packs of food and gear. A couple of the packs were nearly 50 pounds (a little more than I like), and one was 32 pounds. There is a fine balance to light, yet comfortable travel, and I’m always tweeking to even out them both.

Our forecast was laden with rain and a few thunderstorms thrown in. Previous experience has told us that the weather can change in 24 hours, so we hope for the best, and prepare for…well you get the drift. Our journey began on a temperate and sunny, 60 degree day.

There are two ways to get into the main body of Lake One. Western and eastern arms. We chose the western for the journey in. It adds on just a little mileage and three short portages, but we love that it feels secluded and almost river-like. Granite stones skirt the banks and tall white pine mesmerize. Three short portages, all under 16 rods are not hard to complete. In higher water, which we had, the rapids on the second portage outlet off to the left, creating a steady current that must be crossed in order to read the landing. With careful paddling, and a little luck, we got to the other side mostly dry.

Lakes One, Two and Three are popular for good reason. They are accessible, the portages easy and they are scenic with dotted islands. They are not hard to navigate if you are willing to pay attention to your map and compass. Portages along these lakes can also get clogged with paddlers during the summer, so its best to wait your turn and pile your gear to the side. There are two sets of rapids that we portaged around on Lakes One and Two and I suspect that there is some good fishing holes where they drop into the lake.

We wound our way down between islands on Lake Three and got past busier areas towards Horseshoe Lake. The portage was level and easy. The area is full of spruce that are very characteristic of these lakes. Watch for the Pow Wow Trail as it crosses right near the end of the portage.

The next two lakes, Brewis and Harbor are short, easy paddles. There is a nice granite outcropping on Harbor that would make for a great picnic lunch. The final 105 rod portage into North Wilder Lake was mostly flat and easy. There are two campsites on North Wilder. We choose the campsite directly across from the portage. It was level, and had two, small tent pad sites and and easy landing for the canoes. It was heavily wooded, and full of many blow downs. Plenty of dry wood as a result.

We checked the northern site later and found it to be on a exposed, granite slope. It would be hard to hang a tarp here and there seem to be one good tent pad site. But you’d have full view of the morning sun. Overall, we felt our site was a little nicer.


We spent the second day on North Wilder. We had occasional showers, but nothing like the forecast predicted. After breakfast we paddled down to explore the creek that winds south into South Wilder Lake. There is a portage that parallels the creek and so we suspected that at some point the creek would become impassible. The creek is a pretty, classic Boundary Waters body of water. Just deep enough to paddle and wide enough for maneuvering a canoe. The banks are filled with flowers and willow, while deeper in, hills of spruce give the environment an enclosed feeling. We had to lift-over one beaver dam and came across a large, active lodge. Our paddling ended when we encountered impassible willow and small rapids. Setting the canoes on a grassy bank, we headed down a small foot path that intersected with the Pow Wow Trail. This section of trail has many ups and downs. After hiking about a mile, we came across a backpacking campsite that sits on a large outcropping with views of South Wilder Lake. South Wilder would be a good lake for seclusion as it doesn’t outlet into any other lakes or portages. The sides are lined with ridges and hills of pine, making for a dramatic looking lake.

North Wilder Lake to Lake Two via Hudson, Fire and Rifle.

The following morning we packed during a window of dry weather and headed east to the short, 45 rod portage that takes us into an unnamed creek that eventually veers north into Hudson Lake. It is an easy paddle on a creek that has wide turns and no discernable current. There is a wide swath of low foliage that hugs the creek. The creek terminates near where Lake Four and Hudson Lake meet. We traveled up the north arm of Hudson Lake. Skirting the edges are large white and red pine. Their bases flanked by fragrant cedar. Large granite boulders scattered throughout provide interest in this lovely landscape. Evidence of moose was spotted, but no moose were found.


Our trip followed through to Hudson lake and we followed it up the north arm. The area is more river like and easy to paddle. The banks are lined with red and white pine and hemmed by cedar. There are a few campsites scattered throughout, but it was hard to determine their condition.

One short 10 rod portage took us into narrow, Fire Lake. This area is stunning visually and I would be a great place to spend more time at. Plenty of nooks and crannies to explore.

We headed towards a more westerly course and came upon two, short portages. One has large flat, granite rocks on either side. Both portages are relatively flat, and a little muddy if its really wet.

The next section took us through a narrow part of Lake Four and it nearly merges with Bridge Lake.    You could short-cut your trip from here back into the main body of Lake Four, but we’re staying off the beaten path, right?

We stopped for lunch at a beautiful campsite on Bridge Lake.  The canoe landing was so-so, but the fire pit are over was studded with pine and overlooked a pretty section of the lake.  Pine needles padded the area and there was a nice “master bedroom” tent pad tucked in the back.

One of our last and longest portages for the day started after lunch.  Full of plenty of shade, it would be a welcome relief on a hot day.  The terrain is very rolling and if you were entering it from the south, you’d have a long, low up to climb.  There are a few sizable granite rocks to scramble over.  Midway we encountered a massive pine that had recently fallen.  It took three of us to get the canoe over it and once it’s cut to clear the portage, it will still be remarkable to pass by.

Rifle Lake is a small, interesting lake that would make for a good stop over if you needed it. It has one campsite near the portage.

Finally, we were to Lake Two, our last campsite for the trip. Finding that many of the campsites were occupied came as no surprise. We were able to find a east facing site on an island. The canoe landing was great, being mostly gravel and flat. A sharp, short hike gets you to the fire pit area that is exposed. You couldn’t hang a tarp here, but we found a cluster of trees to the side that we fit ours in. We encountered just enough rain that it was nice to cook and eat under. Wood was very scarce here and we had to hike quite a ways back on the island to find mediocre wood. That isn’t uncommon on island sites. They only have so much burnable wood. The tent pads were fine, but not ideal as they were tucked back in the woods, on the trail to the latrine. Bugs and heat could be a problem there in the summer. What it lacked in amenities, it made up for in views. Pretty island views to the east with lovely sunsets set against interesting boulders to the west. With a filling and savory mushroom and sundried tomato pasta for dinner, we explore the island, watch beaver and enjoyed our sole sunset of the trip.

Lake Two to Lake One.

We designed our trip for a short paddle the last day. It was less than four miles to the exit point. We had covered most of this ground at the beginning of our journey, however we took the eastern arm of Lake One back to the car. There are two portages between Lake Two and One, both easy, flat and short. The last stretch of Lake One has pretty, river like characteristics and although we saw more people on this stretch, it was still enjoyable to paddle. Spring time is full of birds and we were constantly surrounded by their cacophony of song. Birders, this would be a wonderful addition to a spring trip.

The boat landing couldn’t be easier. It is a wide stretch of beach, capable of handling many groups. If you’re looking for some variety of topography and landscape coupled with accessibility and some solitude, this might be a good trip option for you.

Good to know before you go.
Entry point: 30/Lake One
Difficulty: Easy
Distance: 23 miles (approx.)
Features: Small and medium sized lakes, river and creek paddling. Plenty of islands and back bays. Portages around rapids. Lakes have walleye, northern pike, yellow perch and bluegill. Parking lot has plenty of spaces, but get there early, it’s a popular entry point. Unless you get off the numbered chain, you should expect to see many other people during the summer months.