Clear Lake in Ely is.. well, all clear. And Voyageur Canoe Outfitters have reported that most of the small lakes on the Gunflint are free of ice as well, with the larger ones like Saganaga soon to follow. Sweet!

Speaking of which, even the maple syrupers are reveling in the unseasonably warm spring. This warmest March on record is seeing record harvests of the stuff.

Wow, an extra month of paddling… the mind reels. See you out there!

Views from this visibility monitor show how hazy it can get in the BW.

Some day, our children will enjoy clear, haze-free views of the Boundary Waters.. Or at least their kids might?

Per the Clean Air Act, state and federal agencies are beginning the first steps in reducing air pollutants which, specifically in Minnesota, cause hazy skies over the Boundary Waters at least 20% of the time.

While cleanup measures can’t happen fast enough for anybody, the Minnesota Pollution Control Agency (MPCA) is taking a lot of heat for not pushing industry harder for changes that are demanded sooner. Even by their own figures, a haze-free Northeastern Minnesota is something you and I won’t live to see:

The MPCA’s own projections show that the proposed rates of pollution reduction won’t eliminate man-made haze until 2093 in the BWCA and 2177 in Voyageurs.

If nothing else, the sheer complexity of environmental policy is something that the controversy makes crystal clear. Here’s hoping that our generation will still be around to enjoy the fruits of this labor.

The Friends of the Boundary Waters Wilderness have already been busy doing their own homework. Next Wednesday, they’ll premiere “Precious Waters: Minnesota’s Sulfide Mining Controversy,” a short film they have produced.

“Precious Waters” takes a hard look at the sulfide mining industry’s history of failed predictions and the threats new mines pose to northeastern Minnesota’s lakes, rivers and streams and sustainable economy, as told through the voices of citizens, scientists and advocates.

The showing, at Macalester College in St. Paul, is free, open to the public… and hopefully will provide some solid ‘next steps’ for people during the 45-day comment period that’s been set up.

Hit the Friends’ site up for details. I’ll bring the popcorn if you bring a friend or two.

Next week, PolyMet Mining will release their environmental impact statement (EIS) regarding a copper-nickel mine they’d like to hollow out near Hoyt Lakes. And on November 2, the public (that would mean You) will get to comment on whether or not it belongs there. If you don’t have an opinion about it yet, let’s go back just a sec and see just how close Hoyt Lakes is to the BW.

One of the greatest concerns among environmental groups is how ground water, seeping through sulfide-bearing waste rock, produces sulphuric acid. Next to the BW. I’ll add that also among these concerned are People Who Like Water, The Unspoiled Wilderness Appreciation Club , and Citizens Against Lakes Full of Dead Fish.

That’s not the last of it:

While sulfides are likely to be a significant point of contention, the issue of sulfates prompted state and federal regulators to propose an alternative to the company’s handling of water from its proposed tailings basin— an alternative that caused one of several delays in completion of the draft EIS. According to Arkley, regulators are concerned that water seeping through the tailings basin will send excessive levels of sulfates into the Embarrass River. Sulfates are known to facilitate the conversion of elemental mercury into the more toxic methyl mercury, which has found its way into many fish in the region.

The DNR and the Army Corps will hold public hearings — both in Hoyt Lakes and the Twin Cities — in the weeks to come. Watch here for updates.

With snow falling already, (sheesh!) holiday shopping can’t be far behind. So why not throw in your bid for this vintage portage pack from 1882? The “buy it now” price is a mere $100,00 American dollars.

While packs like this have never been cheap, this one’s value rests upon more than just how well-preserved it is. According to the seller, this one was handmade by the founder of Duluth Pack, Camille Poirer. Moreover, the date stamped on the brass tag reads “November 10, 1882” — just over a month before Poirer applied for a patent on the thing! So potentially, this thing could be *the* first of its kind. More details:

At the time of this listing, Duluth Pack Company was contacted and a representative of the company said the earliest Pack they had was received by donation from an Australian and this was the Auto (Car) Pack. That pack was dated in the 1920′s and the ”Pack Strap” up for auction is many years older than that as you can see. There are no known “Poirier Pack Strap Sacks” left in existence so this is a TRULY ORIGINAL and a one-of-a-kind RARE item. It is believe this bag is the original patent design prototype because of the three stitch marks above the patent date where the umbrella leather loop would sit. The bags that Poirier sold in his store were stamped in ink ”Poirier Duluth Back Strap” in this location on the front flap.

The seller claims the bag is just as trail-ready as ever, so I don’t question that it’s worth many thousands of dollars. Still, I hope it ends up in a museum where everyone can enjoy it, instead of some private collector’s McMansion on Lake Vermilion. Via Murat.

With the Mudro Lake entry point literally just out the back door, the rustic saloon became a favorite trailhead stop in its 18 years of operation. Off the beaten path, off the grid and comfortably off-the-cuff in character, the place was immediately endearing. Fishing trophies and photos. A friendly update on trail conditions going in; reminiscing over a can of beer from the mini-fridge coming out (only cans, never glasses.) And stapled over every wall surface: dollar bills scrawled with the signatures, shout-outs and memories of a thousand happy campers. It was like a yearbook for everyone who’d ever paddled the Boundary Waters.

When its owners decided to get out of the business in 2006, the Trust for Public Land and the Friends of the BWCA purchased the property. The buildings were razed and the groups hung on to the land in hopes of reselling to the Superior National Forest. I’m not sure when land developers began showing interest in the place, but thankfully the resale guarantees we’ll never have to see any McMansions there.

We came thru the place during its last weeks of operation. When we picked up our rental canoe the walls were covered with dollars; when we returned, they had all been taken down. There may not have been enough for a comfortable retirement in those bills (though I wish there had.) But represented there was a truer, deeper wealth that transcends any dollar amount: the legacy of a kajillion more memories to come.

In just two days, the waters of Quetico will be astir with twenty-plus canoes in a fervid, knuckles-down race — but not one to claim available campsites.

As the date of the Cross-Quetico Marathon Canoe Race now approaches ramming speed, the teams are undoubtedly coveting the first prize of $5000 cash money. You always have to add that part: “cash money;” it just makes it sound that much better. In addition to the winnings, we’ve gotten more details on the competition, the first of this scope since 1964. Read on, sports fans…

Let’s start with the lowdown on competitors. At last count, the number of teams is twenty strong; twelve of those with Minnesotans in the boat (woo hoo!) While official racer bios haven’t been published, some recognizable names are in the list, like Quetico Superintendent Robin Reilly and canoe racing veteran Todd Ellison. Whoever does win though, will be famous on UpNorthica, so who cares about that prize money.

Next, the race course. This map detail shows not just the 125-mile route for the racers; it also highlights the infamous bushwhacked portages cut by Eugene “Bonhomme” Tetreault and Joe “Sauvage” Meany, the winners of the ‘64 race. But there are a myriad of other portages and serpentine waterways that could yet be exploited, and I hope at least a few teams’ll be ballsy enough to try something new.

At any rate, the race begins and ends in Aitikokan, Ontario. The halfway point is a required overnight at Prairie Portage (along the US-Canadian border,) and we’re hoping to bring you a report with some detail by then.

Which leads to the best news we have to share: the live(!) coverage. Thankfully, you can follow the race in real time on Quetico’s centennial site. Handy dandy SPOT Satellite GPS Messengers will be given each team to track progress, and relay any SOS signals or medical emergencies. But let’s just hope for a few impressive callouses and blisters to show off at the finish line.

Drop in on UpNorthica.com this weekend to keep tabs on this spirited race through some of the continent’s most rugged wilderness.

Maybe it’s their close harmony with the boreal landscape, that attracts me. But Finland’s apparently thriving community of environmental artists, like Olavi Lanu, produces some truly beautiful works.

But how would you feel if you saw something like this in the Boundary Waters? Read on and join the conversation…

While I do consider myself a leave-no-tracer, part of me would still love to see art like this in the wild, now and then. Don’t get me wrong: not plopped conspicuously on some campsite or oft-visited island. In fact, sometimes finding inuktuks (stacked rocks resembling a human figure) in prominent spots like that can be downright obnoxious. But I think there’s no harm in short-lived artworks that blow, wash or melt away at Nature’s whim (see Andy Goldsworthy’s leaf compositions.)

I’m undecided about more lasting installations, like the one pictured above. Best suited for a sculpture park in Grand Marais or Ely? Or would it be so horrible to have just a few that could only be found via GPS coordinates, outside the normal line of sight? And by professional, commissioned names? Of course, controlling/regulating all that could be nightmarish…

We usually don’t like to host debates on UpNorthica, but what do you think? Would environmental art ‘fit’ within the Boundary Waters? Or should art-making be limited to only what the camera captures?

Its crew of Canadian and American park officials, forestry staffers and avid paddlers alike, pulled into port and was greeted by guests in costumes from 1815; a fitting finale to their weeks-long journey in a large, voyageur-style canoe.

The event had its moments of gift-giving — albeit with commemorative cups, vs. furs or tobacco — but in addition to toasting cooperated efforts in the past, there seems an optimistic tone that looks ahead to the future. As climate change especially presents new and unfamiliar challenges for the border region, many are expressing a greater desire to work together in sharing information and resources. Ann Schwaller is a SNF officer who joined the crew for several days:

“The trip went above and beyond my expectations and it was just an amazing experience to be surrounded by a group of paddlers all working on behalf of the same beautiful landscape from both sides of the border.”

Many, like Schwaller, are hoping that this represents a beginning of greater cooperation. That would include UpNorthica. After having attended their stopoff in Ely, we’re glad that Heart of the Continent (who organized the expedition) is on our radar. We’ll be watching to see what great things will happen. Salut!

“Canadians and Americans joining forces to fight invasive species and tackle climate change — two nations in one canoe, on a mission for Good in the heart of the continent.”

…Sound like a movie trailer? or one of those DC/Marvel comic book crossovers?

Maybe that’s on account of the heroic push the Canoe the Heart Expedition made yesterday, outpacing a rainstorm to arrive in Ely two hours ahead of schedule.

Of course, it could also be the idea of so many leaders and protectors (like Quetico Superintendent Robin Reilly, Friends of the Boundary Waters Wilderness, and Wilderness News‘ Tim Eaton, to name a few)… all assembled to empower the people towards a greater advocacy of public lands. Read on…

Despite Thursday’s blustery conditions, this third leg of the expedition has been met with good weather and paddling. Just the same, the weary travelers were happy for the stop. A few of them were actively scouting places to sit down, things to lean against.

Greeting the paddlers at the Fall Lake Campground was a mix of campers, members of the press, and support teams from the various organizations involved. In addition to the group photo session was the exchange of a few goodwill tokens between the organizations. Though not without a sense of ceremony, the overtone was the strengthening of partnerships — and certainly of friendships.

The reception, however, was meant as much for the public, as it was for the expedition crew. Once the paddlers had disembarked, the ginormous canoe was overturned on the beach to become an educational tool in itself. Its underside is a veritable rogues’ gallery picturing zebra mussels, spiny water fleas and other wilderness super villains.

Campers perused specimens of invasive plant species, kept watered in old honey jars. Some of these were of surprise (daisies an invasive species in the boreal forest? Who knew?) Superior National Forest staff displayed vials containing emerald ash borers and spiny water fleas, and answered campers’ questions.

Literature promoting Leave No Trace ethics was distributed, as well as some sweet commemorative pins for SNF’s centennial (got mine.)

Already-exhausted crew members were noble enough to even give a few paddling lessons to the public, teaching them a few voyageur salutes and songs, too. But not how to swear or spit tobacco ‘in the French style.’

In the evening, an informal presentation and lecture made clear the most lasting imprint of this cross-border effort: Comradery. In celebrating the centennials of Quetico and Superior National Forest, it was pointed out how just 100 years ago, these forests were nearly wiped out in places. Efforts from both sides of the border have since made these places a true meter stick of what Wilderness really is. But now, in facing new challenges like climate change, we must work all the more as partners. Reilly’s optimistic reflections here struck a tender emotional chord with everyone present.

Today the Canoe the Heart crew heads towards the Gunflint Trail on the next leg of this legendary journey. The image of so many different people in that 24-foot voyageur canoe, brings with it a hopeful reminder: So much more can be accomplished when we realize we’re all in the same boat together.

Wildlife Decoys from Custom Robotic Wildlife

Next time you try to shoot a deer out of season you might be the one getting bagged.

Across the nation, poaching is a growing problem. It further endangers protected species and threatens the health of the overall animal population. The amount of illegally killed whitetail deer is estimated being equal to 25-30% of the annual harvest by licensed hunters.

For a few seasons now, law enforcement agencies have been using decoys to hunt the poachers. But these aren’t your grandpappy’s hand-whittled decoys; these critters are endowed with gears and remotes and whatnot.

Custom Robotic Wildlife, a Wisconsin company makes the robotic animals. If you’re in the market for one, they cost around $1,300, but a law enforcement officer can make up the cost with as little as 2 fines. Some report netting as much as $30,000.00 in fines from a single decoy.

Via Tree Hugger and America Public Media.

Day-long hard paddling made bearable by frequent breaks, a little esprit de corps… and a lot of second helpings at supper time.

The first report from the Canoe the Heart Expedition sounds strikingly similar to a day in the life of the voyageurs. Minus, that is, the pipe-smoking at every break. Put nine people from Canada and the U.S. in a voyageur-style canoe, launch ‘em on a goodwill mission along the Border Region and you’re going to get adventure.

But so far, so good; the first 2 legs of the journey (Atikokan to International Falls, to Crane Lake in Voyageurs National Park) are now complete.

Says Rich Kelley, steering committee chair and board of directors member:

“The Canoe handles well. We had rough water on Rainy lake and treacherous waves and cross winds on Crane yesterday, but the crew handled it well! We covered 33 miles yesterday with a 6:30 departure and a 4:00 arrival. 5 minute breaks every 45 minutes, extended shore break every 2.5 hours, hour for lunch. On the water we averaged 5 mph. The pace of the Bowman is the key.”

Thankfully, the crew’s cook has kept up with that pace; Kelley says after covering 110 miles in 5 days, he’s still managed to gain 5 pounds. Bannock breakfast burritos, anyone?

Next stop for the expedition: Ely. WOO-HOO! UpNorthica.com will be there to bring you the latest words and images of their effort to increase partnership in sustaining our precious public lands. Hoping to get a bite of that grub, too…

Tomorrow is the 10th anniversary of the July 4th, 1999 storm that caused so much devastation in the BWCA.

As in so many natural events, it seems difficult to resolve the violence with the idyllic beauty we expect. Thankfully though, if you’ve been up to the BWCA recently, you can see the evidence of the storm is being erased in nature more quickly than in our memories.

I was working at a camp in northwestern Wisconsin that day. We caught the bottom of that storm and spent most of the day surveying damage and making sure the campers were safely accounted for and sheltered. Later, we learned just how easily we’d gotten off. A couple weeks later I saw the Blowdown area firsthand, while clearing trails with a chainsaw.

Where were you that day?

The Canoe the Heart Expedition begins today with the launch of a 24-foot voyageur canoe in Atikokan, Ontario. Paddling the tour bus-sized craft are rangers, parks staff and wilderness advocates from both sides of the border.

Along the way, they’ll be spreading awareness of Leave No Trace principles and non-native invasive species. They’ll also be sharing copious bags of Gorp (which hopefully they’ve purchased locally and won’t transport it over 200 miles from its source.)

Updates will follow, as well as some photos (hopefully.) And if you happen to be anywhere near the BWCA in the next few weeks, attending one of their event stops is advisable. Only, if you see the expeditionaries, easy on the ‘waving the lighter’ thing — we don’t want another Ham Lake Fire.

Cause for alarm? Uh, just maybe — since all the rivers flowing through all of the proposed drilling sites, flow into the BWCA, according to Friends of the Boundary Waters Wilderness:

“These exploratory drilling sites pose their own impacts, with access roads and drilling pads and tree cutting, possible contamination of the water,” she said. “But the larger issue is the very real likelihood that, if even only a few of these sites turn into mines, we’ll see acid drainage into the wilderness.”

An estimated 4,000 acres could potentially be affected over the next 20 years by exploratory drilling alone. And that estimate doesn’t include private or state lands to be affected.